best way to water drift roses in ground and on a slope

Apply pre-emergent herbicides to garden beds at recommended intervals, four to six weeks for annual weed control.Prune summer-flowering shrubs about two weeks after flowering.Allow peony greens to grow until fall and then cut back.Cut common bleeding heart (Dicentra spectablis) back to its base foliage. Shear back damaged or ratty-looking foliage on columbine (Aquilegia sp.) and cranesbill geraniums.In particular, keep irises and daylilies from forming seedpods. Deadhead flowers and trim damaged, diseased, and dead foliage to keep beds tidy and encourage reblooming.Weed often and cut off flowers of any weeds you don’t get pulled out.Shop nurseries for end-of-season bargains or new fall arrivals. Order asparagus, rhubarb, bulbs, flower and fruit plants, and shrubs for fall planting.Take cuttings of those annuals that you want to winter over.Many provide food for the birds and small mammals during the fall and winter. Allow the final flush of flowers to go to seed.Gather pots together to make watering easier.Hold new plants until the weather cools.Purchase asters and mums for fall display, either in the garden or as part of a container display.Also sow seeds that require a cold period for germination poppies are one example. Plant but protect from heat: late-season cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, peas and broccoli for late summer or early fall harvest. Sow seeds for fall flowers and foliage: pansies, snapdragons, mustard, cabbage and kale.Send questions to Garden Keeper at or mail: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, P.O. Sue Kittek is a freelance garden columnist, writer, and lecturer. While it's OK to replant in the planting area, do not plant roses in the same area. Since the disease can easily spread, badly affected plants should be removed and destroyed. Some control can be achieved if the problem is caught early by cutting off and destroying the affected branches. The initial symptoms are bright red new growth, soft thorns that grow in clusters, distorted leaves and buds, and general decline or death of the plant. One other possibility, one that has become a problem with Knockout and Drift roses, is Rose rosette disease, spread by a mite. However, these problems would show up on the leaves and stems, not as overall decline. I note that while Tony tried a pesticide and a fertilizer, no fungal treatments were used. Knockout Roses are generally easy to grow but are affected by familiar rose diseases: Rust, Black Spot, Botrytis Blight, Powdery Mildew and Stem Cancer. What about light? Do all plants receive equal amounts of sunlight? Roses like sunlight and will bloom less, grow slower and generally perform worse in less light.

Is there a difference in the drainage? Does one area tend to pool during heavy rains, remain wet after the rest of the yard drains? Or conversely, is one area much drier than another? Areas where evergreens grow and the needles fall will be more acidic than the surrounding area. Acidity/alkalinity will also differ as chemicals leach from the concrete foundations into the surrounding soil. Near the house or other buildings, the soil has been dug up, possibly removed during construction and replaced. Is the soil different? Soil within the same yard can be very different. If the same plant performs differently in the same area, look for differences in the conditions. My advice for the roses is similar to that for the forsythias. Remove and dispose of any dead, dying and diseased branches. I don't mean shearing, or cutting just the ends. And finally, cut back any sick or dying branches, then prune out about a third of them to improve the air circulation within the shrub. Check the inside of some dead branches for fungal growth. My advice is to look for environmental changes and restore conditions if possible. Fungal problems can be addressed by keeping the dead debris cleared away, watering from the bottom and pruning out branches to keep air circulating inside the plant.

Best way to water drift roses in ground and on a slope